InstallGear 1/0 Gauge Wire (50ft) Copper Clad Aluminum CAA - Primary Automotive Wire, Car Amplifier Power & Ground Cable, Battery Cable, Car Audio Speaker Stereo, RV Trailer Wiring Welding Cable 1/0ga

Have in my avalanche sub set up works great no issues and plenty of wires for another job

item as described. so far so good

Perfect wire for my amp. Flexible. Carries the load without getting warm !

Very nice product. Silicon insulation means it is very flexible, not stiff like most wire. I was able to easily run it around my engine bay from the battery connection at the starter to a relay I installed for the fuse box, neatly tucking away most of it from view.

10 gauge is a thick wire, should carry big amperage, but the insulation is very streachy. it could not be stripped by a $20. stripper.But the old $5. tool that cuts around the wire works OK.

Very good quality wire had it for two years now no problem

Good quality when you need to get wired

A Good DealJust want to help a bit with the size of wire actually neededall car audio places will tell you to go with 4 gauge or larger for my 750 and 1200 watt rms amps. And i did install 4 gauge at first and found it to be cumbersome to install and hide. But the wires where always ice cold so I new they where not being put under a load at all. I then did some more research on gauge size needed for the amount of watts being used and found by reading 2 different engineers works - the real geeks who know there stuff and are not trying to up sale or overprotect a product - that indeed 8 gauge is plenty good for my application - the proof being in that nothing is getting hot, not even close, not the wires or the connections. This is because not all charts take into context the lenth of the wire or the true watts being used.You can calculate the length of the wire very easy by just measuring.And for the true watts being used you can simply see what size of fuses your amp uses - for example, one of my amps that says it is 1500 watts max and 750 watts rms has 2 - 25amp fuses. That is 50 amps all together - times this by 12 (the volts your vehicle system uses) and this gives you the absolute max watts that my amp can put out before the fuses will pop. In my case for this amp it is 600 watts. Now we have a real (max) number of watts to work with. But lets not forget how you listen to your music and in my case I never turn up the volume to max. I know that I am only using 500 watts max and much less than that for a true rms.And now my rant has almost come to and end. My other amp is listed as 2400 max and 1200 rms. It has 2 -40 amp fuses. Giving it a true max watts of 960 and with my use of it being an actual max of 800 seeing that I never ho above 85% max volume because of distortion at max levels. Once again making the true rms much less than 800 the actual watts the wires would be under load with for any prolonged period of time while listening to music. Hope this helps. Again if anyone is in doubt. Run your system for a while at your max volume you use then go feel the wires and connections at/near battery/amp. If at any place it is hot to the touch then you are not getting your max watts out of your amp and need to go with heavier wires. Not to mention to avoid any hazards.