Dorman 917-142 Exhaust Manifold Clamp Repair Compatible with Select Models (OE FIX)

Works well, feels like good quality metal and also fits on some brands of headers. Quick and straight forward install.

Well, you are reading this is probably because your Chevy sounds like a Chevy i.e. the classic header tick tick tick. I stalled this to a 2009 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD but it will fit basically any LS engine (5.3, 6.0, 6.2 etc). Prior to my manifold head bolts sheering off, I did not know this is actually a very common problem for LS engines... Way to go Chevy, have a known problem and still use crap manifold bolts. Its so common that Dorman has this band aid fix to save you hundreds fixing. FIRST, I want to clarify the part numbers and locations to be installed because some of the reviews are misleading. The are 2 different brackets to be used depending on which of your manifold bolt heads sheared off. Dorman 917-107 (looks completely different) - Locations to be installed is for either the drivers side rear or passengers side front. Dorman 917-142 (This product) - Locations to be installed is either the driver side rear or passengers side front. The reason is because the heads are basically the same but rotated 180 degrees. So be sure you get the correct part. Okay, now to the installation. I had BOTH rear manifold bold head sheered off, so I needed both part numbers mentioned above. But this is the installation for the passengers side rear (917-142). If this is the part you are getting you are in luck because its much easier than the 917-107. First step is the heat shield on the manifold is in the way of the bracket from mounting, but its so annoyingly close to fitting. You will have to of around 1/4"-3/8" of the heat shield. I used my compressor cutoff tool that mat quick work of it. A dremel would work well too. I suppose you could try shears, but its in a pretty awkward location. Once the cutting is done it is simply a matter of bolting down the bracket (Used anti seize) and torque to the spec in the instructions. then install the 3rd bolt that holds presses against the manifold (Use high temp loctite) and torque to spec (I think it was 18 lbs-ft). After I completed both sides and started the truck it was significantly better, but I gave and extra one flat turn on the bolt to the manifolds past the recommended torque just to give it a little extra sealing. The whole process took about an hour. Most of it was just figuring out the best way to cut the exhaust heat shield. Once that is cut the bracket goes in in around 10 minutes. Tick tick tick is gone so the brackets do work. The brackets really are more expensive than they should be (around $30), but it sure beats the price of removing the head. Tick tick tick is gone so the brackets do work. The brackets really are more expensive than they should be (around $30), but it sure beats the price of removing the head.

Perfect design. Very easy to install. Works exactly as it should, exhaust leak is almost un-noticeable now.

Everything fit right and tight. I installed 4 total, one on each corner of the cylinder heads (used part #917-107 for rear driver and front passenger). Took about 3 hours total to do all 4 on a 2007 GMC Savana cargo van with the 4.8L. Unfortunately did not work for me though. I think my manifold is just bent/warped, does not seal no matter how tight I go. Any tighter and I'll crack the block. Oh well, I guess I'll just live with the tick!

Works awesome on my 2005 silverado 6.0. No more leaks

Haven’t quite driven the truck just yet, but I will. I use this one on the passenger side rear. It was kind of a tight fit a tip to help save you guys some Time remove the oil dipstick where it’s bolted. That helps speed it up. I used a combination of 3/8 ratchet and a 14 mm wrench didn’t take very long to bolt everything up just a little tricky

Best price and 1 day shipping was the perfect answer for my problem. Top driver side exhaust manifold head bolt completely broke off. I didn't really notice the noise but notice the gas mileage had dropped. After finding the broken bolt I saw this quick fix and looked for the cheapest but fastest shipping. Amazon came through and after installing the part I noticed a huge difference in sound and it completely eliminated the rough idle. Extremely happy with purchase was easy to install and was a cost effective solution to my problem. I will update review in a couple of weeks on wether or not it increased my gas mileage but for as of right now I highly recommend it!

Great and innovative product! The last thing I wanted to do was take off my exhaust manifolds and try and fudge with getting the broken bolt out (I also didn't want to pay sumone $1200 or so) to do that at a shop. So I opted for this. I originally seen this type of product from KralAuto but the dorman was a bit cheaper, the only significant difference between the two brands is at the end of the "pinch" bolt. The Kral has a nut welded onto the end of the "pinch " bolt I guess to expand surface pressure, the dorman is just a straight up bolt, no nut. Either way, it took me about half hr to install, at night with flashlights (I'm impatient couldn't wait til the next day!) Some engines may need to trim the heat shield, mine on the other hand was so rusty I just literally ripped off the small piece that was in the way with my hand. The other thing that I will say is to be VERY VERY CAREFULL of your DIPSTICK TUBE! You will need to unbolt the dipstick tube bracket in order to slightly manipulate the dipstick tube in order to get the bracket bolt in. most likely like mine, the tube will have a significant amount of rust/rot where the tube meets the manifolds. Use caution while manipulating the tube!!! With that being said, got it installed and No more tickticktick!! Excellent product. Ill keep everyone posted if anything changes near future