- Heat-Activated Fabric Dressing | 1 Pint | Meltable Waterproofing Treatment for Waxed Canvas Jackets & Rain Gear | All-Natural & PFAS-Free Beeswax Protectant | Made in Portland USA

I used Barbour wax initially and then tried this Otter..I like both and in my opinion they differ. I did a light weight 100% cotton field jacket with the Barbour and it turned out great, very supple and soft unlike a Filson tin clothe or similar but I probably could have coated it again to get more of a stiff finish..I did another 511 tactical heavy shirt with the Otter and the diff is it goes on thicker brushed and has a lot more of a thick coating before the heat process to impreganate it into the clothe..Another great way to apply it is heat the wax by sticking the heat gun on high right into the top of the can and when it melts a little stick the brush in and paint it on the garment spreading it as you use the heat gun and brush as you wipe off the excess before it dries which is much quicker than putting it all on the stove to melt it completely before applying..When I was finished both gave me excellent results with the Otter somewhat stiffer similar to a Filson finish..I find using a old iron to get this Into the clothe is best on easy to iron clothe then clean up any other spots with a heat gun or hair dryer just don't over do it or it will travel right thorough the clothe to the surface its on..This is a excellent procedure for both..My results were great and it was my first time. I think I'll stick with the Otter for price as you get twice the amount for the same cost and you will use the same per garment. Although the Barbour is easier and melts quicker and is more supple as you will have a hard time to know if the garment is Borboured by its looks and feel as it is soft but waterproof not stiff like Otter..Both are good though and if you don't screw it up you should be satisfied with either, but understand there is a reason you pay the $400 + cost for waxed jackets because they are a choir to do and you are paying for it so save and spend a coupler hours to save a couple hundred and do it to whatever you need to do it to..Up date; the garment I did is super water proof but it really smells and it smells everything else up in the storage. When I hang it in the garage, as soon as I enter it I can smell it a mile away..From now on only hunting clothes..

After melting 3 cans and trying to paint and scrape and rub this wax on to a canvas tent roof, I started to question my life choices that brought be to this point in my life. Then I noticed a missed spot and took a chunk of hard wax from an empty can and rubbed it on. It worked great. That’s when I came up with the idea to just make my own “rub” bars from the cans. I heated up 4 cans and poured them in to 3oz soap molds making 24 bars. On a 55°f day in direct sun the fabric is hot enough to melt and set the wax, just with less mess and I’m also able to more precisely apply it to needed locations. I like this wax and it definitely waterproofed the fabric. The smell is also pleasant and not harsh whatsoever. However you choose to apply this wax, I highly recommend it!

Works great but really hard to use. I needed to waterproof a canvas watercolor field bag. I found the perfect one on Amazon for around $40. The trouble is, the cavas was not water resistant at all. The quality and price of the bag were too good to pass on, so I decided to try and waterproof it with this product. It takes forever for the wax to melt…and, then, it goes from milky to clear before you should even think about applying it. I used a stiff 1-1/2” wide paint brush with stiff bristles. I could get, maybe, a 3” section of the bag sort of done and then had to put the brush back in the can to remelt everything and get the wax compound hot enough to go clear again. In any event, the bag tool four hours and looked awful, with missed sections and chunks of unabsorbed wax everywhere. So, the next day, I started rubbing tiny sections with my thumb and fingers. That actually works. As friction heats up the wax, the canvas absorbs it better and you start getting a uniform look….But life isn’t long enough to complete a backpack by that method, so I got out my heat gun. 90 minutes and I had a gorgeous, water proof, waxed canvas watercolor field bag. It’s been a week, now, and I would do this again…..but do yourself a favor and buy or borrow a good heat gun. Use it on low, to where it melts any bits of wax and the canvas absorbs them instantly. Fill in with the wax you scraped off with your wood tool (I used popsicle stick) when first applying the melted wax. Just kind stick it where you want it and melt it into the canvas with the heat gun.

If you’re looking to wax a jacket, you need a LOT of wax. This should do the trick when applied generously. Use the double heating method with a pot of water because wax is flammable. If you paint it on, you need to go back over with a spreader AND a heat gun. The look turns out very good. I used two of the large otterwax bars before moving to this can of wax and had a way better outcome with less effort and saved half the time it took to do it with the bars. Save the time and money and start here. Some people complain about the smell, it does have a smell but it’s not bad or as strong as some are saying.

Used on brush pants. Great dressing. Works as it should.

Bought this in 2014 but just tried using it. All I can say is - it is messy! Heated the can as directed in a small pot of water, it melted OK. But getting it out of the can while it is melted (ie hot) is difficult - I used a paint brush about 1-1/2 inches wide, it was hard to get it into & out of the can. If you use a narrower brush you won't pick up as much wax. Another problem - I waited until it was an 80+ degree day, had to work inside though because that's where my stove is. Couldn't take the stuff outside because the water wouldn't stay hot enough to keep the wax melted. Another problem - as soon as the brush hit the wax & I started to apply it to the jacket (Barbour waxed cotton), the wax began to harden. Tried heating the wax (on the jacket) with my hair drier - that worked somewhat. Even with the 80+ degree heat, it wax started to harden up on the jacket. Then tried using an old washcloth to dip into the can - that worked better than the brush, but it was messy also. Best method was to heat the jacket, in small patches of course, WHILE applying the wax from the washcloth - because I could heat not only the cloth but the wax on the cloth also, at the same time. There are still patches of wax in spots, now hanging the jacket in the hot sun and going to wipe it in/down with another lint free cloth. I always wanted a Barbour waxed cotton jacket & saved up for it. Next time I am saving up to have the jacket waxed by the company! Not worth the mess! There is enough wax in the can to do my entire jacket (hip length) but I only did the shoulders, arms and just past the pockets on the front and most of the back. There is enough wax left in the can to do the rest of the jacket.

You have enough time with a brush to get the wax on to the garment, and a little spreading, but it will harden fairly quickly. A few pointers, warm the garment (about 10 minutes in the dryer), use a heat gun (this will be better than a hairdryer), keep the area you are working on, warm, wiht the heat gun. Keep the brush warm with the heat gun. Spread and spread and spread. Use your hands (they'll wash right up with Dawn dish detergent), spread and spread. Use the heat gun and get as much of the wax in the garment as possible. Stand back and say - "WOW, that looks like crap!" Now, put it in the dryer for about 30 minutes. (be sure to dry a load or two of towels after this). Now - stand back and admire your work. It will come out great. Just spreading the wax on the garment is going to take a good 90 minutes, probably more. Trying to get the wax to soak in with a heat gun will take forever. Drying it in the dryer for 30 minutes - that takes about 30 minutes and really spreads the wax out nice and even. The garment I did (a surplus OD Green field jacket) took the wax pretty well, but it was still too thick. I dried it for about 15 minutes, then turned everything inside out, did another 15 minutes and it looks great.

Does what it says on the can! Heating it up took some time, but once it melted everything was pretty straight forward. Used a sponge to apply it to my two Barbour jackets. Didn’t have to use so much (still have 2/3 can after I was done). Used a blow dryer to melt the wax bits. No noticeable scent after application. Love that it’s not mineral oil. Look forward to doing it again next year. Do it on a sunny summer day, though. Makes the spreading process much easier.

melts fine with a head gun, but it stinks, the smell becomes unbearable after a while and very hard to get rid of. Had to wash the clothes 3 times to totally get rid of the smell.

When warmed up, it’s easy to apply on fabric. 1 small tub can last about 1 extra large jacket.

Miniature. No where near a "half pint", not even half a cup. More like "100mL" (1/10 pint) I'd estimate. Bought this per reviews expecting a good product and importantly sufficient quantity to re-wax one jacket and other projects. That won't be possible due to deceptive and misleading advertising.--Full refund please.

A little difficult to work with but this is to be expected. Provides good waterproofing for oil skin outer wear.

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