Thermal Grizzly PhaseSheet PTM 50x40 mm Phase-Change Thermal Pad CPU GPU

I’ve been really impressed with this thermal pad. The 50×40 mm size is convenient to work with, and the material is easy to handle and position without making a mess. It adheres well once placed and provides excellent stability, so I didn’t have to worry about it shifting around.Most importantly, the temperature control has been excellent. It does a great job transferring heat and keeping temperatures under control, and it’s also completely silent since there’s no added noise. Overall, it’s very easy to use, stays in place well, and performs exactly as you’d want a high-quality thermal pad to perform. Definitely recommend it.

If you're reading through reviews on this stuff, chances are you're looking to find out how it differs from standard thermal paste, and whether it's worth your time. Hopefully I can help you with that.Thermal Grizzly's Phase Change pads have many advantages over paste. Since I like to start reviews with the good, let's look at a few.Thermal paste dries out, and when it dries it loses its ability to conduct heat. It's a good practice to repaste every couple of years because of this. If you're the type of computer user who upgrades often, this probably won't apply to you since you're either getting rid of your old system before that paste dries, or you're constantly re-applying it anyway as you change cooling solutions or upgrade CPUs. On the other hand, if you like to run your systems as long as possible, these pads are for you--they DON'T dry out. Pretty nice stuff if you're going to be using them in a server or a system that won't see much in the way of regular maintenance.These pads also don't suffer from "pump out." Since your CPU and heat sink are usually made of different materials, they expand and contract at different rates. Over time, more and more paste gets pushed out until you've got areas with poor coverage. Phase change pads are solid at room temperature, and they turn into a sort of paste under high heat: your pads are expanding and contracting right along with your heatsink and CPU rather than being pushed out.I've repaired enough computers in my time to know that most of you don't apply thermal paste properly to begin with. Most folks fall into the "more is better" mindset and make a proper mess, like they're making a peanut butter sandwich. Others use far too little and have a lot of area uncovered. These pads take all the guesswork out of that by completely covering the die with a uniform layer.Also, if you're careful while removing your heat sink, you might be able to reuse the pad. It's solid at room temperature, remember, and it never dries out.If all that sounds good to you, here's how you use it.First, store the pad in the refrigerator until you're ready for it. It's solid enough at room temperature, but it'll rip less easily if it's cold. While the pad is chilling, remove your heatsink and clean off all that old paste. (Told you you use too much of it.) 99% rubbing alcohol works great for this. Take your pad out of the fridge, and line it up to your CPU surface. Use a Sharpie marker to mark off the length and width, then cut the pad to size.Now for the fun part: peel one side of plastic off the pad. Lay the exposed pad on your CPU, then press it down. Use your fingers to roll any air bubbles out of it. Then CAREFULLY... SLOWLY... peel the top plastic off. The pad is going to want to stick to the plastic more than it's going to want to stick to your CPU, so be patient with this. Once done, carefully install your heatsink (try not to slide it around, which might wrinkle the pad).Time to test temps, right? Well, no... not exactly. The pad needs a few hot/cold cycles in order to work its way into all the microscopic nooks and crannies. The general recommendation is to run a stress test for ten minutes, then power down the system to let things completely cool. Ten cycles like this is what most people recommend, but I've found four or five is enough. This is where Youtube reviewers tend to mess up, by the way: they'll slap on a pad, immediately run a stress test, then conclude the pads aren't as good as paste. Nothing could be further from the truth. Once cycled, you very likely will be getting lower temps than you would have gotten with tried-and-true paste.And you'll never have to apply it to that system again. That's my way of addressing the main disadvantage of the pads, which is that you could buy a tube of paste for what you're paying here. On the other hand, you're going to be applying that paste over and over again--and probably using too much of it anyway. (Don't worry, that's the last time I'll berate you for this.)The other downside is how meticulous you have to be about applying it. Just slow down and take your time. If the pad does rip, do your best to fix it and you should be fine.Highly recommended!

Repasted an Alienware X15 R2 (i9-12900H / RTX 3080 Ti) with this on both dies, replacing Arctic MX-5 that had gone in a few weeks earlier after removing Dell's factory liquid metal. VRAM/VRM got putty (Upsiren U6 Pro), fans were replaced at the same time. Linux box, so numbers are from turbostat and nvidia-smi.The metric that matters on this CPU isn't temperature — a 12900H pins at 100 °C on anything — it's how much power it sustains at 100 °C. Same 5-minute all-core stress test, same fan profile:MX-5: ~44 W at ~2560 MHzPhaseSheet, day 1: 65 W at ~3110 MHzPhaseSheet after ~10 heat cycles: 69.5 W at ~3150 MHz, in a warmer roomThat's +58% sustained package power from a TIM change. The CPU also drops from 100 °C to the mid-50s in about 25 seconds after load ends, which tells you the contact is good. GPU side held 87 °C max through a 20-minute FurMark + CPU soak at ~130 W with no throttling, though I changed graphics settings that same week so I won't quote a clean before/after for it.Install tips, because this is where people fail: put the sheet in the fridge 20 minutes first (not freezer). Cut it to size with both liners still on, slightly bigger than the die — overhang is harmless, it doesn't run. The second liner is the hard part; a tab of Kapton tape as a pull handle and a little warmth from a hairdryer so the film grabs the die makes it peel instead of tear. Don't spread it. And don't judge it on day one — mine gained 4 W between day 1 and day 2 as it settled.One 50×40 sheet covered both dies (roughly 24×15 and 31×22 mm cuts) with enough left for a retry. Bought this over generic PTM7950 because it's a branded product with real returns; there's a lot of fake 7950 out there and you can't tell from the packaging.Only downside is the film is fragile to handle. Once it's on, it's clearly the best non-liquid-metal option I've used in a laptop.

I used Thermal Grizzly TPM on my RTX 3090 after noticing the hotspot consistently reaching 105°C. Installation was easy, and I followed other reviewers’ advice to freeze the package first, which made installation straightforward. After replacing the thermal paste, temperatures are now well within range, it is noticeably quieter even under full load, and running stable. The improvement in both temperatures and noise was significant. If your 3090 is running hot and loud, I’d definitely recommend this TPM.

The PhaseSheet itself is amazing and I totally recommend it! It takes a few hours or even days to really stabilize and be 100% effective but I love it!The 4/5 is only due to the install, the sheet is very thin and 1 side is very very sticky and hard to remove (I tried at room temperature and also "cold" aka 20min in the fridge!) but it's not easy to detach from the tall sheet!Please Roman (der8auer) make it less sticky! 🙏

You had better believe it works! I cut it to size for my CPU chip, fastened my cooler to it, and fired up my PC. Unfortunately the cooler did not work, so my CPU started to quickly overheat (I use the AMD Ryzen Master monitoring utility which shows CPU temperature instantly). The temperature was way too high, but the case cooling provided a bit of minimal cooling. Had the thermal pad sheet not transferred the heat to the cooler -- which still had SOME residual radiant heat dissipation ability -- my CPU chip would have been fried.I have two minor issues. The first is cost. Fourteen bucks seems a bit steep. But then again, you get what you pay for. It works great, evenly spreading the conduction paste (the heat melts the sheet into a paste) between the CPU chip and the cooler.The second issue is adhesion. Yes, that's what we want, but since my cooler had failed, I needed to separate it from the CPU chip. When I tried lifting off the cooler, it pulled the CPU chip right off the motherboard, the adhesion was so strong. Again, this is proof of quality. But the problem then was separating the cooler from the chip with destroying the CPU chip. From asking ChatGPT I found that I needed my wife's hair blower. I had to heat the chip and cooler sufficiently to soften the Grizzly paste enough to twist the chip from the cooler; prying it off would warp or break the chip. A bit of a hassle but then again, you don't expect your cooler to fail, plus unlike regular thermal paste, the Grizzly PhaseSheet never has to be replaced, which is another huge plus.Needless to say, I bought another Thermal Grizzly PhaseSheet to use with my new cooler.

My idle temps were a bit high on my old thermal paste application and when I took off my cooler it looked dry and too thin. No wonder it was hovering 40-50c doing nothing! Installation was a breeze. I just put it in the fridge several hours before installing so it would stay more solid. The 50x40 square is plenty big for any CPU or GPU and this fit my AM5 CPU with plenty to spare. Idle temps are way down hovering at 36-38c and load temps are pretty similar but I also installed new quieter fans so maybe not a fair comparison.

Works as advertised. Easy to put on if your careful.

Came in nice, neat packaging. Works very well.

I own a Lambda Tensorbook 2 (basically a Razer 15) for a few years now. Some days ago, I opened it up, and re applied thermal paste (MX-40) carefully on GPU and CPU. The improvement was significant, but it showed two hotter spots which were still causing some throttling. So I decided to try this product.I left it in the fridge about 10 minutes, cleaned the old paste, cut the sheet into two pieces for GPU and CPU, and applied the sheets over them. BOOM. 5 seconds.The peel is a bit hard to remove, technical tweezers helped. I cut it slightly bigger than the chips, and still got some left for a change in the future.TEMPS ARE INSANE! The PC sits now at 4300 MHz across all cores in PL2 (boost mode) with avg temp around 80 (more or less 20 seconds boost, 90 W), and at 3700 all cores in PL2 at about 60 degrees. ZERO THERMAL THROTTLING.The GPU couldn’t get hotter than 61 degrees in 5 minutes of test load.My fans are now basically never on. I am very happy with the purchase.

Another amazing Thermal Grizzly product.Easy to use, much easier and simpler than Thermal paste.Used it on my RTX3090 massive improvement of thermals.I highly recommend this product

6800 xt phantom gaming ekran kartıma ne yaptıysam pump out problemini çözemedim. En son faz değişimli termal ped almaya karar verdim. 950 tl verdim. (Termal macunların aşağı yukarı 3 katı fiyata satılıyor.) Pedi takar takmaz etkisini gösterdi. 104 dereceyi bulan hotspot 80 küsürlerde geziyor. Diğer sıcaklığa da etkisi oldu. Termal macunu da ilk sürdüğünüzde bu şekilde değerler alıyorsunuz fakat zamanla bu etki kayboluyordu. Bu ürünlerin en büyük özelliği 45 derecenin altında form değiştirip macun gibi dışarı taşmayı önlemek. Çok memnun kaldım. Tavsiye ederim.Uygulamadan evvel 10-15 dakika buzdolabının soğuk yerinde beklettim. Gpu çekirdeği boyutunda kestim. Ardından ilk jelatini söküp çekirdek üzerine yapıştırdım. Ardından fön ile düşük kademe sıcak hava üfledim. Diğer jelatinin de rahatça ayrılabileceği hale geldikten sonra cımbız ile nazik nazik jelatini söktüm. Adından kartı toplayıp kullanmaya başladım.

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