3-M CO. 38808 3M(TM) HEADLINER

I can't use it. Tried it on a patch of cloth in the car and it looks awful!

I had to replace the sagging and frankly stinking(I'm an ex smoker) headliner in my 1999 Ford F250 extended cab truck. This product allowed me to do that very easy. Once you remove your old headline from your vehicle (plenty of online resources to show that process), use a wire brush to gently remove all the old factory foam from the backer board. Yes this does make a mess, i recommend doing this outside and wearing a dusk mask. Once you have removed all the old factory foam, use a shop vac to clean the backer board and use a damp rag to fully clean the backer board surface. The ideal is to get the contact surface as clean as possible for the new fabric and adhesive to adhere to. Once the backer board is clean and dry, roll out the new fabric headliner were you can cut and or trim it to the size you need. A word about automotive headliners. All most all newer domestic manufactures use a very stretchable fabric bonded to foam for sound and temperature absorption, like wise all domestic vehicles use a flexible, but sturdy glass mat for the baker board the fabric adheres to. Take extreme care to not bend or fold or crease the backer board, if you do it will show up thru the fabric. Some imports simply use cloth or synthetic cloth as a headliner over simple wax coated card board. If that is the case, i strongly recommend that you call a professional as the process is different form conventional headliner installation. Now once you have your fabric cut to shape, lay it on the backer board. Either with helping hands or by placing items heavy enough to prevent the fabric from moving. The tricky part and depends on your headliner shape. For normally flat headliners, simply fold the fabric length wise onto itself. For most "bowl" shaped headliners, like my ford truck, fold the fabric over onto itself width wise. As you guessed you glue half the fabric at a time. This process prevents wrinkles and speeds up the install if your working alone. The adhesive will spray out under high pressure in a almost spider web pattern. You can adjust the nozzle to spay horizontal or vertical pattern. This depends on how big a surface you are working on and how you are standing in relationship to the material. To make it simple you want three coats on the fabric and three coats on the backer board. You want two coats left to right and one coat up and down. This will give you maximum coverage and adhesion. All ow the adhesive to "set up" for a few minutes before you do anything. Now simply grasp the ends of the fabric, making it into a slight u shape, you want the center of the fabric to contact the center of the backer board first. Lay the fabric onto the backer board and start to rub out the wrinkles( if any) from the inside of the headliner out. Do this to all wrinkles are out and the fabric is pushed down to promote adhesion with the adhesive on both the fabric and backer board. You will notice that this adhesive and the fabric is very forgiving and you can easy stretch out any wrinkles by simply pulling up and re applying the fabric in that spot. Now you simply repeat the process for the other half and you are all done. I would recommend the headliner be left out in the sun or a warm room for a few hours before installing back into your vehicle. And of course take care reinstalling it. Last thing you want is to stain it with dirty fingers or tear it and have to re do it. And that is it. Your headliner is now good for many more years of use. Looks brand new and you saved over 200 dollars doing it yourself. Why people drive around in cars with the headliner hanging down or semi held in with thumb tacks over a total of 20 dollars for the glue and 20 dollars for the fabric is beyond my reasoning. If you are doing a GM Suburban, Ford Expedition or other large vehicle you will need two cans to get the recommended coverage.

This stuff is fabulous! Bought it for one project and now using it on another one too. The adhesive is strong. In the beginning it is moveable if you need to before clamping it. Have a damp rag next to you incase there is over spray. Its easy to clean up when its still wet.

I tried two other spray glues that didn't last very long -- as in a few days -- but this has held up for the balance of a hot summer. Apparently, it's the high heat that car interiors get that makes it tough for glue to last but I'm very pleased with this.

Bought a can of 3M Headliner & Fabric Adhesive to replace the material peeling off the A, B, and C pillars in my e46 BMW (they all do this eventually). I went with a slightly heavier tweed fabric that turned out to be a stunning upgrade. This adhesive sprays the perfect amount from 8-10" from the surface. Mega tacky after 15-20 seconds but still allows you to reposition without damaging the fabric if you don't get it lined up just right the first time. Once it dries, it is ON THERE, with serious sticking power. Did not bleed through the fabric and the parts turned out like a factory job.