Catchmaster Rat & Mouse Glue Traps 12 Pack, Large Heavy Duty Sticky Traps

There is a reason why professional exterminators use this and don't bother with "snap traps" - they flat out work. But there are a few things to keep in mind to make sure you get maximum effectiveness: 1. You must know the path that the critters are taking. Just spend some time getting inside the head of your vermin - they have a nest somewhere and they travel back and forth to food and water sources. They will usually travel against walls and along the tops of roof joists. If you find holes in walls, you will often see a dirty smudge where their filthy little tails drag along behind them. You will also see droppings (they seem to poop constantly). Place these traps in the high traffic areas, arranging them so that they are butted against walls, and along the trails they follow (think of the way ants travel in a line - rats and mice kind of do the same thing). 2. Don't bother with bait - if you follow the instructions in #1 above you don't need bait. I have never baited these things and I have caught a LOT of rats (my wife feeds birds in our yard and the seed attracts rats). 3. Do NOT use these outside or anywhere your pets or children can come in contact with them. If you put them outside, you will inevitably end up with a bird stuck to it, and unless you are a cold-hearted killer, you will feel awful. When I have to use them outside (like along the pathways the rats use to visit the bird feeders) I cover them with a long pice of plywood propped against the wall to create a "tunnel" and try to make it much more difficult for anything other than a rat or mouse to get stuck. Also, curious house cats will OFTEN get stuck in these, especially if there is a mouse or rat thrashing around on it and squeaking. Let me tell you that it is NO fun trying to pull one of these off your cat's face while there is a live rat stuck to it (or a toddler's shoe!). Also not covering them, you'll end up with a lot of leaf litter on them, which hinders their effectiveness. 4. Don't use these if you can't handle the sight of a dead (or dying) rat or mouse. Be prepared to "dispatch" the animal humanely once they are trapped. These traps do not cause instant death (the way snap traps do). The animal will eventually die (often from suffocation or shock) but the most humane thing to do is to kill them once you hear the squeaking and thrashing around. Speaking of which, it is fairly common (especially for a larger rat) to become partially stuck on one of these traps. I had a big wood rat get his back end stuck on one in my attic one night, and he flipped out, thrashing around and dragging it all over the place until I was able to crawl up there and "take him out". Outside, I usually use a shovel to decapitate them quickly when they get stuck. In the attic, I will usually use a very sharp hunting knife or a pair of lopping shears to decapitate them. (Did I mention this is not for squeamish people?). On a side note, don't leave these in the attic too long without checking them. Trust me, if you wait until you smell something funny, you are going to have a very unpleasant situation to deal with. 5. Make sure you wear rubber/latex/nitrile gloves while disposing of these once you have a dead mouse/rat. The reason is twofold: first, they are filthy disease-ridden creatures and they tend to poop and pee all over when they die, and you don't want contact with that. Secondly, if you accidentally get stuck to the trap while retrieving it, you can slip off a glove easily. If you're bare skin gets stuck (and these things are STICKY!) you will have a real mess do deal with.

I got 2 mice in my house and tried using a bunch of glue traps...with little/ no success. Then I remembered I bought these "Catchmaster" back in 2021, never used them, and they just sat in their box. I used them and caught one mouse in 10 minutes....and the second mouse took about a week. Unlike other glue traps which are kinda flimsy (or made of paper), these traps are really solid/ strong. Suggestions for use: 1- They got to be placed on the ground/ floor and 2-use food. The company and instructions say don't use food...and that's fine. I used food and it worked FAST. I placed a dry cracker as a dry base --- and a nice scoop of peanut butter on top. (Not too much, you don't want the PB to mix with the glue.) I caught the first mouse by placing the glue trap in a quiet dark corner of the room on the floor. The second mouse took a week because I screwed up. I tried being "too cute" and putting the traps in really interesting spots, usually off the ground on shelves 2/3 feet high. Nothing. But I could hear him skitter every night. Aaargh. I then put the traps ON THE GROUND and in dark/quiet areas...and 5 minutes later, he was caught and it was over. The large trap size really matters. The first mouse was tiny, maybe not more then a credit card size in length (2") and very thin. But the second mouse was a Monster...he was 1/2 pound and as round/thick as a 60 watt light bulb (4" long) and VERY strong. But the Catchmaster Glue Trap caught the monster with no issues/effort. After you catch/kill the mouse, you have to throw out both the mouse/trap into the trash. That glue is no joke. If a trap doesn't end up being used ... you can also reuse these traps by reclosing them - they snap together - and put them into storage. However, if you use food (against company instructions) ... and it mixes with the glue --- you can't do this. They get contaminated and have to thrown in the garbage. Each pack has 12 total ... I tried using 6 glue-traps without food--- didn't get any nibbles. I tried food with 6....and got 2 kills. The cracker/ PB combo was 2/2....but I also tried cracker/ cookie and cracker alone combos --- they didn't work, But they could have. IDK. The 6 glue traps without food might also work for you. I tossed the 4x remaining food-use glue-traps in the trash afterwards and saved/ reconnected the remaining non-food glue traps for future use, if need be. The price is might seem high --- 25$ for 12 traps. But it's quality over quantity. Even if you don't have mice/rats now, buy these now....stick them in your work closet, and you'll be happy if you have to use them. You can buy 50 paper mouse glue-traps that look good and might work....or buy 12x Catchmasters that actually do work. 5/5 Recommendation. Thanks. Dave.

These were absolutely worth it! With the smaller version, the mouse would just go around it for weeks. But these caught him the same day!

I like fees they’re pretty pricey, but they’re mostly effective. Unfortunately they trapped everything even stuff. I felt bad about trapping and had no intention of trapping. I understand those with moral concerns, but if you have a health hazard in your dwelling space you gotta make tough choices. Maybe they’re more humane ways, but this was effective. It did the job, but it also left me with a big problem once I caught something that was too big and I was unprepared to dispatch. I use the word dispatch meaning terminate maybe I should’ve just use the word terminate to begin with because if you use these, you better be prepared to become the terminator because what of these little sweet creatures don’t actually die. What if they just get caught and make squeaky noises for days and days I am a novice I didn’t know anything as a first time homeowner. I called an exterminator and they left us with these paper glue traps which were mostly useless. I bought these a few times but the last time I was kind of disappointed because they were all stuck together and I couldn’t get them apart and that’s a sticky disappointment

Was just the medium sized trap I needed for home. I liked that it was big enough to trap a big mouse if that was ever the case. Caught a mouse the very first night I put the traps, it worked great. The glue was strong and effective. Happy with my purchase, would recommend to others. Definitely will buy more in the future.

I wasn’t sure what to expect at first, but these traps really proved themselves. They’re very easy to use—just place a small amount of peanut butter as bait and set them along areas where you’ve seen activity, plus a few spots you suspect they might be traveling. I found that laying them out on both sides of those paths made a big difference. One thing to understand: mice are smart, and they will try to jump or avoid traps. But if you space these out just right, you’ll catch them. And when they work… they work. Within a short time, I started seeing real results. It gave me peace of mind knowing I was actually getting ahead of the problem instead of guessing. I originally bought a pack of 24. By the weekend, I had already ordered 48 more—that’s how effective they were. If you’re dealing with a rodent issue and want something simple, reliable, and worth your money, these are it. They help you take control and keep your home and family safe. Definitely worth it.

It does a good job catching mice. However, it isn't the most humane method of control, but...

These are sticky as all get out, unfortunately, several of them were stuck together, so those were of marginal use. My use case was to use 2 of them, back-to-back and hang them up to catch gnats and mosquitos, which works well. Using them outside on the ground for mice or something will result in too much collateral damage catching geckos and lizards etc. which I don't want to do.

Fit for purpose. Strong glue and easy to use. Excellent size

The needs to be stronger, i saw the mise escape from it

It’s just bad quality item, it’s not working in the way it should. I placed the trap and put the bite, rat left couple of clear mark of its paws and tail without being captured :-(

This was really good

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