Liqui Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush | 500 ml | Oil additive | SKU: 2037

I used the Liqui Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush on my 2013 Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost sitting right around 132,000 miles, and it definitely did its job. I recently tightened up my maintenance intervals to change the oil every 3,500 miles, but I wanted to give the engine a proper reset. Following the bottle instructions, I added the 500 ml can to the warm engine oil, let it idle for about 10–15 minutes without driving or revving it, and drained it immediately. Even with shorter change intervals, the oil that drained out was pitch black and smelled heavily of spent contaminants and built-up gunk. The EcoBoost engines are notoriously hard on oil with direct injection and twin turbos, so seeing that much suspended carbon and residue come out was proof enough that the detergents were doing the heavy lifting. Refilled with fresh synthetic oil and a new filter, and the truck is running smooth and quiet. Given how well it cleared out old buildup, I plan on adding this to my routine roughly every 3rd oil change (around every 10k miles) to keep the turbo oil passages and variable valve timing components clean. Highly recommended for higher-mileage turbo engines.

Seemed to work well, changed with the oil and used ceratec and engine running very smoothly now, actually noticed a wheel bearing noise after the change since the engine noise was reduced

Always used another brand that I liked until I tried this. It works great at getting all the sludge and deposits out of your engine. Just follow the instructions and you will be amazed at how clean your engine is inside

Boy did this product work and clean out the junk in my engine. I followed the instructions on the can. When I drained the oil it was as black as I've ever seen any engine oil. I do believe that it may have cleaned things a little too well. We had not been having any oil consumption issues prior to the cleaning. Post cleaning we seem to have a little bit of an oil consumption issue. I'm thinking that maybe there is still some residual cleaner left in the system and after a couple of oil changes we'll be back to 'normal'.

Works well and does its job But make you may or may not need to clean the your oil actuator in the Honda crv afterwards.

I watched several videos by professionals who used this. Follow instructions. Make sure the engine is warm before you put it in. Make sure you have everything you need. The biggest tip I got that was repeatedly emphasized by the pros was to buy a “cheap” oil in addition to the new oil. After you run the flush drain the oil and flush. Put the cheap oil in and “rinse” the inside of the engine with the cheap oil. Then drain again. Replace the oil and filter with your good stuff. I followed these instructions or suggestions and…. I sat in the truck while the flush was running. It’s a 13 year old truck with 150,000 miles. It was running strong but burning oil and kind of loud. Sounded like it was growling. There were some ticking type noises that made me nervous. As I sat in the truck and let the flush cycle through the engine at idle I could literally hear the flush working. Very slowly it was like someone gave the engine a Xanax and you could hear it getting quieter and calming down. I drained, rinsed with cheap oil only letting the cheap oil run through at idle for another 15 minutes then drained again. The oil flush was clearly important. It didn’t come out as black as the first drain but it looked like old nasty oil. The truck is no longer burning oil. My gas mileage has increased significantly and it is running so quiet and smooth it’s unbelievable. I used a little less of the liquid Molly flush than it called for regarding the flush to oil ratio. I didn’t want to do something too intense to the inside of the engine. But the results were remarkable. Just as advertised after following the instructions. I also added the liquid Molly oil additive to the final oil change to ‘lube’ the inside of the engine. I plan to do another flush in about 10,000 miles. All that to say, yes, you won’t be disappointed as long as you follow instructions and a few tips and tricks. My truck is almost running like a brand new truck and again it’s an old and tired truck. I will use this as part of a high mileage maintenance and perform the flush every 50,000 miles or so. I feel confident it will extend the life of my engine based on the results

As Described, Does What it is supposed to❗️

I did infact work.

Liquid Moly never fails to impress! Used this engine flush as I was changing engine oil brand and spec. (My car has already done 1,20,000 kms.) Followed the instructions exactly. If you are unsure, look up official Liqui Moly videos on YouTube! Added additional step of refilling new, cheap engine oil + new oil filter and driving around for 30-40 kms. Drained that. Discarded oil filter. Refilled new premium oil of choice with new oil filter. And mission accomplished! Highly recommended!

I used this on a 2002 BMW E46 I had purchased with no idea of the prior maintenance history. Engine was running a little rough, especially on cold starts despite an oil change immediately after I purchased the car. I elected to use this product for a thorough engine flush which I performed as follows: I poured in the entire contents of the can into the crankcase with the old oil, and ran for about 12 minutes at idle speeds (anywhere between 10-15 minutes is safe). I drained the old oil which as expected, was pitch black. I then refilled the engine with cheaper oil I had purchased from Ace (around 140 AED for 7L) with a brand new filter. Ran that oil for a day just to clean out any remaining deposits and solvent (even though it is designed to evaporate). Some may ridicule this as overkill, but honestly spending 160 AED for a cheap oil and filter is a minuscule price to pay for engine longevity and peace of mind. I drained the oil which had already turned a dark brown, exhibiting just how much of the old oil and deposits remained in the engine. I filled it for the the 2nd and final time with Liqui Moly's "Molygen" 5w40 which is BMW LL-01 certified. After almost 2 weeks, I've inspected the oil several times and it has remained remarkably clean despite driving almost 1,000km. The engine settles down much quicker, and is certainly much quieter and smoother before. If you are religious about changing your oil every 5,000 to 7,000km and have maintained your car since new, this product and entire process is unnecessary. Regular oil changes and the additives/detergents in modern motor oil is sufficient. However if like me, you have purchased a car with no idea of the prior history of maintenance (which you should determine from actual service records and not just the hearsay of the seller) then this is a worthwhile extra step for peace of mind.

¿Es parte indispensable en un cambio de aceite? No, la verdad no. Sin embargo, la fórmula cumple perfectamente con su función si sigues las instrucciones al pie de la letra. Si no sabes cómo usarlo, búscalo en YouTube (preferentemente en los canales oficiales de la marca). Entonces ¿para qué usarlo si no es indispensable?, bueno la respuesta es sencilla: para sacarle el mejor provecho al aceite nuevo habiendo limpiado por dentro el motor. Si quieres que el aceite nuevo realmente cumpla con su propósito (lubricante, detergente, etc., etc., etc.,) lo ideal es que "trabaje" en un máquina lo más limpia posible. Así que, en conclusión, es un excelente "pre" para que el motor esté en mejores condiciones para recibir el aceite nuevo.

This works great. I used it after I had just done an engine flush and oil change. Turned my fresh oil black! My truck has had the engine changed, has under 130,000 on the engine, and has been regularly serviçed with full synthetic oil etc. Not an old negleted beater. Check engine light is on from an oxygen sensor, because I ran seafoam through it when I did the first oil change. Code is cleared now, has not returned. Just before my last oil change in my 2008 Sierra 1500, with the 4.8, I added some transmission fluid to my oil (old school teick to clean engine out, I have been doing this for years) idled about 5 km, then added some store bought engine flush. Idled for 5 minutes, then drained all the oil. I jacked up my truck and let it fully drain for about 20 minutes until no oil was left. It came out black, and my oil filter was heavy I then filled it with cheap conventional oil and put a new filter on. My oil pressure went up slightly, and the lifter tick went away. I drove it for 2 days, putting less then 200 km on the new oil. It was still clean, and as clear as the day I put it in. I added this engine flush, and idled it for 15 minutes. The oil pressure went down slightly, and the lifter tick returned. This stuff cleaned a ton of crap out of my already flushed engine! Oil filter was again heavy, even after draining the oil from it for 10 minutes (not as heavy as the first one, but still, heavier then a used filter normally is) Drained all oil out again, refilled and put a new filter on. As you can see from the pictures, the oil came out black again. The oil pressure went up higher then it ever has been since I owned the truck, and the lifter tick is completely gone. Definitely reccomend this. Also, if you are at a point of doing an engine flush, I would probably do what I did and use this as a second flush, as I believe it works better then cheap store brand. How could it get the oil that black if the store brand stuff did it's job? I really did not expect my oil to be as dirty as it was

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