KONDOR BLUE | USB-C to HDMI Capture Card for Live Streaming – Video & Audio | Compatible with Zoom, Skype, OBS, ECamm, VLC, YouTube, Facebook, & Restream + More | Blue

Works good for HDMI 1080p content like my android boxes and Microscope cam. Won't work with my old video composite to HDMI converted signals.

Good quality and does the job nicely.

This is the third capture card I’ve used for live streaming, and it’s by far the best. The other two were cheaper (in the $10-20 range) and both would shut off if the table was bumped, and broke within months. One only sent audio and not video. I thought all these capture cards were just going to be junk, resigning myself to buying one every 6-12 months, contributing to the endless pile of tech waste. Then I saw the reviews for KONDOR Blue. For ~$15 more, you could get a product that actually works, and won’t break after a dozen uses. As soon as I plugged it in, I could see the difference in quality and ease of use. It’s plug and play, so you don’t need any special software either. I highly recommend this over any of the other cheap junk that sells for half its price.

not sure if it is my computer but this is what I encountered. I have a Sony FX30 and a Macbook M2. I connected my camera to the computer via HDMI. However, I could not get the audio to sync with the image. I tried different HDMI cables. Lowered the output to 1080, but nothing worked. I went back to a regular USBC cable and it worked. not sure if it is the Kondor card or something else...

First off, let me say that I had all 3 of the major problems I've read in the reviews: no video, no audio, capture is way too red. Check, check, check. I almost sent it back. Turns out all were due to Windows 11 settings. No video was due to not allowing permission access for the camera (yes, camera not capture card). Later, much later, I realized audio permissions were the issue, I had to allow access underneath the sound permissions settings. Then again much later, after I tried to adjust the red cast in OBS studio (which you can by supplying optional ffmpeg parameters but is a pain to vary by movie) but the red cast turned out to be the Windows 11 display settings for the device capture card (e.g. (brightness contrast and saturation). Saturation is the culprit, go to the capture card device and turn the saturation down and tweak brightness/contrast. Now the source and target match is visually perfect to me. The only thing I'm not sure about is that my source laptop is only showing 8 bits outputting to the card and I have no way of testing if it's the laptop or the card that's limiting the color plane bits to 8 with a 2nd monitor attached. So, all said, I give it 4-1/2 to 5 stars, especially for $39.00. My last card cost $300 and did not do much more (around the turn of the century).