Flutesan 20 Pcs 4 Pin 10 mm LED Strip Connector RGB Lights Waterproof Adapter 22 AWG Wires Connector for Strip Light Unwired Gapless Track 5v 12v 24v

These things are amazing. I bought them to split my cords and have 2 short ones on our church stage. They work very well and we're easy to setup. Its only been a week. Will update if anything goes wrong.

Work as they should. Easy to use.

For the les side, the end that meets up with this will need almost a whole pad- do not cut in center. Not sure how strong these are in regards to maintaining connectivity. Seems that a little mech. movement at that joint would compromise power. On the one I used, it seems tight.

I make a lot of LED projects and constantly look for ways to conveniently connect power to a strip. Soldering works, but is often difficult to get right due to the coating on the strips, the thin layer of copper conductor and nature of the solder in use. These do offer quick connection to power and controllers, but still need some TLC to work properly. AND they are not at all suitable for anything that will be moved, vibrated or shifted. The connectors that attach to the copper strip work, but the flexible plastic case permits the strip to move which can break the physical connection to the tiny copper pads. I find it desirable to scrape the surface of the pads on the LED strip lightly to improve contact. These connectors do work consistently and are great for static connections that remain rigid once connected. The cost is very reasonable for prewired connectors.

I do a LOT of electronics, usually soldering, but occasionally I use connectors. I have the exact correct gauge and type of LED wire yet it rarely will slide its connectors in all 4 wires. Even with pliers squishing them till the plastic almost breaks, it's about 50% that you will get all 4 or not. So I move on from the wires side and move on to the 5050 LED 10mm side. It doesn't get all of the conductors everytime so you end up either getting zero light or the wrong color (due to the r, g, or b wire not being connected. Even if you somehow manage to get all 4 punctured properly (and if your led strip has not given up due to the number of failed attempts), the way this thing works is flawed. Those little pieces of metal in their connector punctures the light strip and even the slightest pull easily pulls the strip out of the connector. They should use pressure instead of puncturing. And the claim of waterproofness is absolute BS, there is no possible way this isawater tight connection. First in the alignment of the stars and planets, that you end up actually having all 4 wires connected AND all 4 of the light strip conductors connected, the only way water isn't getting in there is if you completely encase the entire thing with silicone and let it dry. I would look for a different solution. This technique used here is no good for most thing led light strips that they sell on amazon

When I first tried these, I couldn't get the connections to be stable and the connected light strips wouldn't stay on with any movement of the strand. Fortunately I had bought extra tape to practice with before my final project. Before puncturing anymore holes in the copper pads, I tested the connectors by just tapping the copper to the pins first. Then I realized that I was getting a much better connection if I attached the light strips face down in the connectors and voila! Problem solved. Going forward, I made sure to test the connection after each new strip added, by plugging it all in. That way I knew which connection was having issues if need be. The whole thing worked flawlessly on the first try!

Connectors are easy to use. I didn't have to splice wires and clipped onto strip easy. Once wire side is closed there's no reopening without damage. The connector pierces wires and the light strip. I found poor connections on both sides. Unfortunately it was after testing and gluing that it decided to not work. Need something more reliable.

As expected

The teeth aren't strong enough to pierce the casing around the wires, so they don't make contact. Using pliers to add a bit of pressure does nothing, as the amount of pressure needed to pierce the wires only cracks the housing.