Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life (Pulitzer Prize Winner)

As a dedicated bodysurfer who has spent countless hours in the ocean, I found Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life an absolute masterpiece. William Finnegan’s memoir resonated deeply with me, capturing the essence of a life lived in pursuit of the perfect wave. From the very first page, Finnegan’s storytelling prowess hooked me. His vivid descriptions of waves, the ocean, and the diverse surfing spots around the globe transported me back to my own exhilarating experiences in the water. The way he recounts his harrowing adventures and the sheer beauty of the surf is nothing short of poetic. One of the aspects I appreciated most about this book is Finnegan’s unflinching honesty. He delves into the challenges, fears, and triumphs of a surfer’s life, painting a realistic picture that goes beyond the glamorous portrayal often seen in media. His reflections on the camaraderie among surfers, the environmental changes, and the personal growth that comes with the sport are thought-provoking and inspiring. What truly sets Barbarian Days apart is Finnegan’s deep understanding of the ocean. His respect for the sea and its unpredictable nature mirrors my own feelings as a bodysurfer. I found myself nodding in agreement as he described the sensations and instincts that come with being in the water, the thrill of catching a wave, and the respect for the immense power of the ocean. I couldn’t put this book down. It’s a compelling read that will resonate with anyone who loves the ocean, whether they surf, bodysurf, or simply appreciate the beauty of nature. Finnegan’s journey is not just about surfing; it’s about life, passion, and the relentless pursuit of dreams. Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life is a must-read for anyone who has ever felt the call of the sea. It’s a beautifully written, deeply personal memoir that captures the heart and soul of surfing—highly recommended!

I've just purchased a CD audio-book copy of "Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life", by William Finnegan. The CD set I received is in great condition. Like new - with no marks or scratches on the discs or their packaging whatsoever. I do buy used CDs & DVDs from time-to-time and these discs are in the best condition I've ever found to date. The price was very reasonable and the packaging for the shipping was good. I LOVE this book and I'm so pleased to get ahold of an audio copy in such great condition. I can't wait to hear it read to me as I go about daily driving in traffic, walking, drinking coffee, etc. - - I will look forward to purchasing from this seller's Amazon store again in the future.

I just finished reading Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life, an excellent book by William Finnegan A friend recommended it and compared it H is for Hawk. While both are memoirs, they are very different and in my opinion Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life is much better. Barbarian Days tells the story of Finnegan’s surfing. The details of this life fill in the background, but are not the focus of the story, because this is really a story about waves and surfing and one person’s adventures in search of the repeated, excellent waves. Finnegan’s continued deprecation of his surfing skills and wave size gets a little annoying.. Finnegan is an excellent surfer, as anyone who has devoted the time and effort to the ocean can tell. His continual minimization of his own skills and his descriptions of double overhead waves as 5 foot surf may mislead the reader from Kansas about the giants that Finnegan repeatedly rides. The untutored may miss the point that when an expert like Finnegan is afraid to go out, the surf is really, really big and really, REALLY dangerous, and that the two are not necessarily correlated. Finnegan, who wrote the New Yorker profile of Doc Renneker several years ago, knows both the waves and the English language. His prose flows easily and contains facts that will help apprentice surfers perform better and the general reader understand the incredibly complex task of riding a board on top of a moving, changing, challenging wave and the stoke almost any ride can bring to the rider. While no book can compare to the feel you get riding a wave, Finngan’s book is an enjoyable experience in its own right and reading it will be a great experience when the waves are flat or the ocean is distant.

William Finnegan has written the rarest of books, a measured very literary account of a surfing life. Or with the surfing and everything about it as central to his account of that life. As a lifelong surfer myself all of his descriptions, feelings, fears and joys rang true. Descriptions of some of the earliest days at now legendary destinations and surf breaks bring great pleasure. A must read for surfers and an opportunity for non surfers to understand the drives and experiences of this watery tribe. Finnegan skilfully plaits together elements of his working, personal and surfing lives across oceans, continents and decades.

What an incredible read. I say this having had to look up no end of words and references throughout reading the book and even with my lack of education I was never deterred to continue reading. What a unique, honest, wise and unapologetic account from the author and as a surfer who has always been distinctly average to fundamentally crap much of what he describes are unattainable dreams for me but I loved hearing about it. I loved hearing about what are now world famous breaks when they were just discovered secret spots or local worshipers only. This autobiographical referential history of surfing makes a telling that I would liken to the first time you hear a truly great album. I may re-read it but the profound feeling of balance and awe that I have been left with is truly astounding and something for which I am truly grateful to the author. thank you Mr Finnegan and for expanding my vocabulary too 🤙🙌

Il surf non è uno sport, è un mito, un poema epico tramandato da libri e film come Point Break o Un mercoledì da leoni e questo libro è un altro capitolo di questa epopea che crea eroi capaci di cavalcare onde che non si possono nemmeno immaginare. L'autore ripercorre tutta la sua vita da ragazzo ad adulto, sulla tavola, anzi le tavole che lo accompagnano in giro per il mondo da Bali alle Hawaii. Scritto bene, leggero ma con dettagli interessanti per chi ama il surf anche solo da spettatore o fotografo o appassionato. Uno dei più bei libri mai letti sul surf. Solo un dubbio...saprà ripetersi l'autore su altri temi che non riguardano il surf con la stessa passione?

un vrai régal, très bien écrit, passionnant, donne envie de partir vivre des aventures et permet de s'évader où qu'on soit

Amazing book, even for non surf enthusiasts. 10/10