ORANGE-SOL 10151/52 Contractor Solvent

Using the orange plastic razor blades (https://www.amazon.com/FOSHIO-Plastic-Scraper-Remover-Adhesive/dp/B076BBW1WM?th=1) and a good spray bottle, I had no issue removing the 12 year old, cracked, browned, brittle film from the front of my Phaeton. Somethings I learned that made it easier than I expected: 1) After spraying the film, let it sit at least 5 minutes before slowly attacking with the scraper. 2) Take your time pushing the scraper slowly and consistently to lift the film. 3) Once the film is off, spray the remaining adhesive and let it sit FOR AT LEAST TEN MINUTES! 4) When the adhesive has sat for 10 min or longer, it will sluff off with little or no effort with a single pass. 5) Keep replacing the blades... every 2-3 stripes. Even if you think you can make it go further. This solvent works great at loosening softening the adhesive, but it must be given time. If you go to scrape and some of the adhesive is staying behind, STOP, spray again, and wait longer. It'll come off in long gooey piles with nothing but clear shiny paint if you've waited long enough. I had zero paint damage from the spray - however, my headlamp covers frosted over (see picture). I don't think it was this solvent, but rather either the adhesive from the film, or a combination of the adhesive and the solvent. I've purchased a headlight restoration kit, but have not had a chance to use it yet.

I have used this for cleaning flooding compound when splicing coaxial cable for many years and it is some sticky nasty oozing stuff. I mostly used the regular de-solv-it found in many stores but the Contractor grade works faster. The best way to buy is by the gallon it is non corrosive to plastic so most spray bottles work fine. I have tried many other Orange Solvent/Cleaners "please don't waste your money" most just make a less sticky mess.

I am dead serious. (ok I also admit I hate cleaning the tub...but its not for lack of trying...the other cleaners just didn't cut the grime) I have no purpose in giving a raving review except to help out a fellow wife and mom like myself. all I did was pour some of this stuff into a little spray bottle...spray down the entire bowl of the tub and let it sit for...maybe a half hour...I don't think it really matters...just long enough for it to soften the tub gunk. then I came back and literally wiped it off. there were a couple spots where I re-applied and re-wiped, but i'm telling you I DID NOT SCRUB. I have died and gone to heaven. and not only that, but this stuff is all natural! you can use it to clean your baby's feet if you want! lol. and it smells like oranges. oh please invest in this big jug of miracles. you will not be sorry. oh and ps...my husband had a shirt that had a piece of packing tape on it (for who knows how long) and as I took it off, the glue stretched and snapped back to the shirt....it was really sticky and I knew washing it wouldn't take it off. this stuff literally 'de solved it'. pretty sure its good for anything sticky, ooey gluey or gewy...or scummy...or ...you get the idea. get it and share it with your mother in law. (its always nice to know something she doesn't)

Worked well in releasing glue from wood floor after tiles removed. It did work quickly in some areas but took overnight setting for other areas of the floor because different types of glue seemed to have been used on the tiled floor. Quickly released duck tape from plastic container in a few minutes. There is a slight orange odor to product.

This solvent is absolutely awesome! I just bought a house and the tubs looked deplorable. I bought this cleaner for the tile walls and to do the cleaning necessary prior to refinishing (painting the tubs). Several coats of spray on the tubs and a lot of scrubbing later this product had removed soap scum and hard water deposits accumulated over years and my tubs look awesome (no refinishing needed). I also sprayed it on the caulking and removing it was a piece of cake! Works like magic.

I just gutted my kitchen, and the original oak floors were covered in tar paper, 1/4" plywood, and then carpet, which of course all had to go. Part of the floor had some weird green felt stuff that was glued down. I was able to steam the tar paper and felt off, but a residue of tar and glue was left on the wood. I am trying desperately to remove the tar. This product's label claimed it would remove tar and glue, and that it worked on wood, so I was very hopeful. I sprayed it on and left it for the recommended 1/2 hour. On the glue it did nothing. At. All. I ended up using vinegar and hot water on that, and finally got it off. The tar residue turned into an oily mess. At first it wasn't coming of at all but then I let it sit for a total of 2 hours, thinking it just needed more time. I only sprayed an area about 6 feet x 18 inches or so. It took an entire roll of paper towels to just get a thin layer of it off. The tar is still there. I think if all you wanted to do was get some random tar splashes off your car it might work fine, but I hope I can save anyone out there from the hours of sheer awfulness I went through trying to get my oak floors back. If you are trying to get tar or glue residue off of flooring, don't waste your money on this product. Money down the drain. I would give it a zero if I could.

The label claims it removes carpet glue. No, I'm sorry it does not. I tried scraping up glue 5 minutes after the application, 30 minutes after and after leaving it on overnight. The results were disappointing. This is all in preparation for laying tile. The thinset mortar will not adhere to the old glue so ALL the old glue must be removed. If you have old carpet glue to remove, save your money for a reciprocating saw and scraping attachments.

We used this solvent to remove the adhesive residue left behind after peeling off the 14-year-old Diamond Shield coating from the front of our Newmar motorhome. I was initially cautious and applied it sparingly, but after the first application it was apparent that it did not degrade the motorhome paint, and a heavier application seemed to work better, so subsequently I completely soaked 4 square foot section of the adhesive and let it sit for about 5 minutes, then sprayed on some more solvent and began scraping the glue residue using plastic razor blades. The solvent acted as a lubricant, allowing the plastic razor blades to glide smoothly across the painted surface. We used about half a gallon to complete the job. We used this product with ambient temperatures of about 90F and made sure to apply it in the shade (I do not know what would happen if it was applied to a painted surface in direct sunlight, but I fear it could evaporate too quickly and end up making the job much more difficult).