Briggs & Stratton 698183 Fuel Shut-Off Valve For Quantum and Selected Models, In-Line Valve,Black

Put this straight onto my rider works great.

I completely replaced my fuel delivery system to my ten year old Briggs and Stration generator. after finding a gas leak due to alcohol in gas. I thought if i kept preservative in the fuel and drained after every hurricane season this would be prevented. It wasn't. See other reviews for grommet and filter. I added this valve to the existing one as i wanted an easier location to shut off my fuel than the one that mounted in the fuel tank grommet. "I no longer trust amazon reviews " and use them only if i see other reviews on internet. Chose this one for cost and lack of other bad reviews on net. Had no problems with installation, none of the reported problems on Amazon review but time will tell. Works well shutting off fuel what more should a valve do other than not leak which mine doesn't. Just went through my first hurricane for the season hope all goes well in future. No leaks and i am now using Alcohol free gas trust me I don't want a leak in the future.

This is a comparison of three small (3/16" or 1/4" ID) inline fuel valves I purchased from Amazon. The 3 valves are: 1 - Motion Pro 08-0038 Inline Fuel Valve ("MP" valve), http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009D2R5YU 2 - INLINE FUEL VALVE PETCOCK for Chinese made ATV GO-KART DIRT BIKE ("ATV" valve), www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NL2Y3K 3 - Briggs & Stratton 698183 In-Line Fuel Shut-Off Valve ("B&S" valve), www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038U3JKM I needed to install an in-line fuel shut-off valve on a small dirt bike that had a failed fuel valve. I ordered these three due to their relatively low cost, coupled with the fact that it is not possible to get a good idea of their relative sizes by looking at pictures. There was also no way to see how easily each of them worked just by looking. IMHO, it is particularly import for an in-line fuel vale to work easily with the fingers, since one is turning the valve against the bending resistance of the fuel lines themselves. The harder a valve is to turn on and off, the more the fuel lines will be flexing over time. I wanted to minimize fuel line flexing to avoid leakage and perhaps eventual breaking of the fuel lines near the valve. All the valves, as delivered, flowed fuel when turned on and shut off the flow when turned to off. The slimmest was the MP valve. It appeared to have the highest quality materials (brass). It has intuitive lever positions - "on" has the lever in-line with the fuel lines, "off" has the lever cross-wise to the fuel lines. It has a good sized lever. Very nice. However, it is very hard to turn the lever; it is very stiff. The ATV valve (in all fairness) was intended to be fastened to something - you can see the small mounting hole in the body casting in the Amazon picture. For my use, there was no way to make use of the hole. The material seems adequate, appearing to be some kind of pot metal or other alloy. The on/off locations of the shutoff valve lever is something one would get used to with use, but is not automatically intuitive. The lever is smallish and fiddly. The body is larger than the MP valve, as expected. This valve's lever required about the same large amount of force as the MP lever, without the advantage of the MP valve lever's longer size. The B&S valve has a larger body than the other two (some additional girth and height), so there may be some applications were a slimmer valve is needed. The valve lever is relatively small, but is much less fiddly than the ATV valve lever. It also has intuitive lever positions - "on" has the lever in-line with the fuel lines, "off" has the lever cross-wise to the fuel lines. Importantly, the valve lever is very easy and smooth to work. The effort needed to open or shut the valve is significantly less than either the MP valve or the ATV valve. The ease of working the valve lever on the B&S valve is enough less than the other two that it was the deciding factor for installation on the dirt bike; its size compared to the MP valve was not a problem for my installation. This valve is plastic; I do not know how long it might last compared to the brass MP valve. However, I intend to use another of these B&S valve when the time comes due to its need for less lever pressure in use. My B&S valve came with the two hose clamps, which I used. I feel obligated to say that my comparison above is my opinion of these three valves based on a single sample of each valve and without taking any of them apart. Other buyers may have other needs/considerations, and, there are other fuel valves sold on Amazon I didn't buy that may be better or worse than these three, of course.

I use two of these on my paramotor to control fuel delivery from my auxiliary bladder to the main tank while in flight. Other valves may be cheaper or may resist more pressure before leaking, but these do the job perfectly, and their combination of lightweight (important!) and easy smooth valve switching operation (also important when in hard to reach places while flying in gloves), there isn’t really a better option out there at any price. There are plenty of knockoffs of this valve at half or less of the price, but they compromise on smoothness and were thus far inferior for my application. They’re so cheap anyway, may as well get the real thing!

Not sure if genuine, no briggs and stratton packaging. Did NOT receive any clamps

These are far superior to the foreign made ones. I bought both and these are far better.

Once, when I had a snow blower overhauled, and the carburetor replaced, the repairman installed one of these on the fuel line. He explained, that when you have a small gas engine, that is stored seasonally, you either have to drain the gas from the tank(and run it dry),or add a gas preserver to the gas in the tank ( and run it a bit)before storage. The reason is, that the little bit of gas that will remain in the carburetor, will dry up during storage and gum it up - causing starting up problems. This solves the problem , because it starves the carburetor, and leaves it dry. I never had another starting problem with that snowblower. When that snowblower died, many years later, I purchased one of these shut off valves, and installed it in the fuel line of my new snowblower. It starts, every time on the first pull, and i have had for many years. They are inexpensive, and easily installed, in a few minutes. Since then, every small gas engine that I buy, I put one of these in. Try this, it will save you lots of money in expensive repairs, and the frustration of trying to start your small gas engines.

I have to admit I don’t know why vendors that manufacture and sell small engine appliances do not have a fuel shutoff valve as standard equipment. Storing fuel in the carburetor for long periods of time (off season) is the number one reason for poor engine performance or engine failure. Honda is the only vendor that does this on every engine they sell and probably contributes to why they are number one in small engine reliability in the world. We’re I live all the ridding lawn mowers have Briggs and Staton engines. OK enough of my complaining. Installed this shut off valve that cost a couple bucks on my $4,000 Husqvarna ridding mover with a B&S engine and it works great. Cheap insurance to keep this out of the small engine repair shop for the next 10 years.

Valve d'arrêt de carburant sur un groupe électrogène

This one doesn't leak, has quality fittings, it's what I expected so thankyou.

Works great and doesn’t leak!

Schnelle Lieferung & hat einwandfrei gepasst.Danke

spedizione velocissima con Prime meno di 24h. E' un ottimo prodotto ad un prezzo vantaggioso. Consigliato