Superclear Liquid Glass Deep Pour Epoxy Resin, 2-4 Inch Clear Casting Resin for River Tables, Live Edge Wood, Large Molds, Food Safe (1.5 Gallon Kit, Without Pigment Pack)

Ok, 5 stars. Why? A great product! It is like glass when solid. It is moderately thin so bubbles come out easily. Ease of use - 3 stars - Might as well know up front, if you are in a hurry, this is not for you. Practice, practice and practice is the key to using this stuff. I probably went through a quart or more just practicing. To back up a bit, this was my first project with it and first time use ever with any clear epoxy. The project was 20”x12’x1.25”. It took multiple mixes and pours, which I did one right after the other. So the cure process was the whole thickness. It does generate a lot of heat. Enough heat that it cause a sheet of plexiglass that I was using as a dust cover over heated and sagged into the resin. I panicked but was able to release the plexiglass from the cured resin with a heat gun and all was OK. My warning is, they say it will heat up, they mean it and be prepared. The cure time is 1 to 2 days at this thickness. Mixing is a big deal with this stuff. When they say mix for 5 min, then pour into another container and mix some more and then mix some more, they mean it. I used wood 1 qt paint sticks, which worked for the 28 oz mixes I did. When I started mixing the resin would turn milky. After a while (over 5 min for me) it would turn clear. But I could still see wispy threads through the mixture. So more mixing. Then there was the pour into a second container and more mixing. At least 10 min of mixing per batch. A trick I found to keep bubble out was to set one of the paint sticks in the mixing container before pouring in the resins. Then pour the resins onto the stick and let it run down the stick. I did this with the base resin and the hardener. And then I did the some thing to pour the mixture into what I was making. Hope this helps. I did practice with a few thin pours (less than a half inch). These took at least 3 days to cure. So, while it could be used for that, it would be better to use their other product. So a great product, but takes slow and careful effort to use.

I did some research between a handful of different resin sights before purchasing this product. I always make my way through the less-than-pleasant reviews before working my way into the highly rated ones and found this product suited my needs perfectly. Directions were simple, mixing wasn’t an issue (I absolutely recommend pouring into a second container though). The resin itself settled well and solidified beautifully! I did not, however, order enough on my first round. Updates for shipping stopped at one point, saying “delayed” with no fault to the epoxy company (UPS do better). I sent them a message explaining my issue and they immediately shipped me a new batch! I plan to update this once I have my table sanded down and cannot WAIT to use this resin for future projects. If I could give ten stars, I would. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

I recently bought this Epoxy because I needed a deeper pour Epoxy that also needed to be crystal clear for embeds. This product did not disappoint. The cure time is a little longer than your run of the mill epoxy, but the quality of product that came out was worth the wait. Extremely minimal bubbles if any, because I didn't see any. Compared to other Epoxy's the smell was apparent, but not overpowering. The final product was rock hard and durable, worth the price, and I will be using this epoxy again. 5 stars for a really great epoxy.

I was gifted a rare piece of Canadian Redwood that had floated in the Gulf of Mexico for years, and pulled from the Gulf back in 1970. It was full of sea slug holes, and looked beautiful, but was very fragile, in some places most of the wood was missing due to the slug holes. After consideration, a guitar was the only way to go, since the gifting person's dad was there with him in 1970, and was an accomplished guitar player. Acrylic was the only way to go, since I decided to build a Telecaster electric guitar, and needed to encase the wood so it would be stable. In some places the holes go right through, and you can see clearly through them, this stuff is so crystal. This was about a 1 3/4" thick pour, and with all the holes, I knew I needed to put in a thin layer on the bottom of the mold I built, then lay the wood in, and pour the rest. Worked well. The product performed exactly as advertised. Set up nice, crystal clear, some bubbles got caught due to all the hundreds of holes in the wood, but that was to be expected. I just left them, since they were down a ways, and didn't hurt the structural integrity. Actually, it worked a bit faster than I thought, and in about 72 hours it was totally firm, and I peeled off the mold and began finishing the edges and polishing it. What I DIDN'T expect, was after about three additional days, with just the edges of the guitar to polish off and a few light scratches on the back from the mold, was that the product got SO HARD, I found I didn't have a polish or compound in my shop that would touch it. Now let it be said, I do a lot of golf club restoration, woodworking, file, planer blade and knife sharpening in my shop and I have compounds that will move stainless steel. Not this stuff. Once it fully cured, I could router it,(slowly), to make my neck pocket, control area and pickup holes, but polish it? Forget about it. I worked on it for days, and moved maybe .001 of the stuff. So although a great product, you had better get it polished within the first three days of hardening. For the record, I used a digital scale, calibrated, that measures out to a tenth of an ounce. I made sure the product was measured correctly. Been down that "it didn't cure right" road before. Mixing is everything also, and I used a wooden mixer I made on my lathe that matched the taper of the bottom of my containers that would also go into a drill, so I could mix it completely. Curing not a problem - hardening, Whoh...

I use this on all of my projects. It looks and works great!

Seasoned woodworker, but first deep pour river table...so take this for what's it worth. First off, the epoxy is crystal clear. The micro bubbles came out of it with minimal effort using a torch. I used 2" thick black walnut slabs with about a 4-7 inch river in between. Mold was 3/4 MDF covered with clear packing tape then a heavy coat of past wax. sides to bottom was caulked. ZERO leaks and easy to remove project from mold. Also, I sealed the live edges first using their tabletop epoxy- I highly recommend this step. Brushed on a thin coat, placed in the mold, then tried to seal the bottom of the wood to the mold. I let this dry 2-4 hours as per manufactures recommendation, then poured the deep river. Things I wished I would have known to do: 1. This epoxy takes a long time to get hard....3 days to cure. Fine. However, I used a green Mica powder and poured the river at about 4 PM. I kept stirring the mica around until I got a cool pattern I liked, only to come back a hour later and seen that it settled into a totally different pattern. Stir again...hour later same thing. This went on and on until 2 AM and the epoxy showed no sign of thickening enough to hold the pattern I liked.Went to bed. Set the alarm for 6 AM, but by then, it was too late as the epoxy had thickened to where stirring was out of the question. I think if you pour in the AM hours, the timing would be such you could baby sit it and keep a eye on when to get the stir pattern you like. It needs to thicken up a little to hold. So plan the pour accordingly. If you are using a tint or dye or even just clear, then pour it, get the bubbles out then walk away and wait 2. This epoxy shrinks. I poured with my form being perfectly level in all directions and poured until it just slightly mounded over the top. 3 days later, fully cured, it was down at least 1/8 of an inch from the top surface of the walnut. The way to counter this is to put a bead of caulking along both river edges then pour to the top of the caulking. I've seen this done in videos, but did not do it. I wish I had, because after you get done flattening your slabs, the project gets thinner. I started with a little over 1 7/8" thick and ended up with 1 5/8" Not a huge deal, but something to keep in mind 3. Think hard about green.....looks nice in pictures, but in retrospect....kinda disappointing compared to blues, and blacks, and other hues. Personal preference, but I thought I'd throw that in there. Has nothing to do with the epoxy. In summary, I'm very happy I went with this product and will use it again for sure. I had a technical question for the manufacturer, so I reached out via email and got my answer the next day. This stuff has no bubbles if done correctly, machines and sands very well.

Easy to work with. This was my first attempt using it.

Good product

Yes it’s clear but it looks so dull and foggy after it’s done .You can definitely see the imperfections and cracking.I’m disappointed in this product.In addition, the price was reduced after I purchased the product