6 FT Rail Mill Guide System 2 Crossbar Kits Work with Chainsaw Mill

Great tool. Works great with my 20" bar 52cc saw. The pictures on the Amazon ad page are most helpful for assembly, as the instruction sheet didn't exactly match the latest design. Tried it out on a piece of 12" round sassafras I cut up last weekend. Setup was pretty easy. I had some leftover along rails that made the first cut easy. Also setup my log on the deck of my equipment trailer so that working height was more comfortable. Even with a chain that had 6 tanks of fuel of prior use on oak, Birch, sassafras and cherry. Cut 4 sassafras planks about 4' long. None of the fasteners came loose. Everything was still tight. Ran one plank a few passes through my Delta planer and looks great. Had to plane about 3/16" off each side to get rid of chain scars (standard saw chain). Great tool for occasional projects, but not the most efficient method for lumber if you plan on becoming a lumber source. Band saw would be much faster and would not eat as much wood for waste. Great tool. Works well. Easy to assemble. Great addition to my woodshop for the price. =)

The product was complete and works as described. There were actually a few extra bolts which is ideal. There was not exactly instructions, but there was a photo. I originally bolted it together, used it, and took it back apart and changed the direction of the u-bolts. The nuts where up against the chainsaw motor and were not adjustable. It took several attempts to get it the way it works for me. The extruded aluminum rails were very durable and light. Nice overall design. One of the bumper slides came off the first time I used it. Could have been tack welded better.

I have used a few Alaskan mills. The granberg being the best. This mill is close the scales are off the hardware is cheep but overall if you have a granberg and want the longer rails and some extra supports this is a pretty good deal just use granberg are grade 8 hardware and you are good to go.

The instructions are in pictures, not words. The pictures are laser printed and are quite clear. Sort your hardware and pieces and you should have it figured in no time. Step 1, mount the angle pieces to the center of the cross over so they come together at the center. Once tightened, the dog goes between them. If it's tight, start the dog at an angle and with light pressure it will go in. The cross overs mount to the rail via the square screws. Wing nuts are used on the connector pieces. It will all make perfect sense once you start using your mill. The 3' lengths are all 3', the gaps people see or the bends people see is because the cross overs are not square to the rail. A measuring tape and/or square fixes the problem. You can start with a perfectly assembled rail, when you start adding, subtracting sections, moving the dogs and levelers around to the length of your log, it will, after awhile resemble a snake. A small gap or curve in the rail is not an issue, you are leveling the rail from to back and side to side, if the rail makes a slight curve or you have an 1/8 gap, it will not bother your mill a bit. I do keep a cheap joist square and measuring tape when it gets out of hand. If all you are doing is 8.6 logs on a 9' rail, use a lock washer or light thread lock or have the joints welded. Lengths are assembled the way there are because of people like me that add and subtract 3' sections at a time and do multiple logs a day. It is designed that way for quick adjustment. The nature of the beast, vibrations will start to back out wing nuts and we've caught a couple of leveling screws that backed out. Bees wax is the best answer for what we are doing as the rail is indeed being adjusted that often. This is not a design, engineering or manufacturing flaw. All rail systems are about the same. Per one review about the dogs being cheap...the only way to bend one going in is with a big hit at a bad angle. They are stabalizers, there is no reason to drive them in hard. A little tap with the back of a hatchet and they are home. You do have to be careful prying them out sometimes, don't use your rail as a lever especially near a connector. Common sense and don't drive the dog into the log as if it's a railroad spike. Female (me), back of a hatchet, light tap, it's in. 1" wide, 18" long, under the rail, quick tap, they are out.

Well made. Easy to use. Durable. We bought one and was impressed so bought 2 so we could mill longer boards easily. Very happy eith this purchase.

The item arrived very well protected by the packaging. Upon opening the package and inventorying the hardware , it did not match the hardware list. The instruction were piss poor at best. I assembled the sawmill looking at the pictures provided. A bit of a challenge to say the least. The day after I assembled the sawmill I received an email with updated assembly instructions, a day later than needed. So, anyone buying this will have some mechanical abilities and be able to figure it out. That being said I will update as soon as I have a chance to put it to use.

Purchased mill to plank a fallen tree in my yard. After reading reviews and receiving mill I went ahead and welded the poor welds on bar holder prior to use. It seems that there's a lot of people having the welds break because they are very poorly welded. (No filler rod used). Once welded and installed , I milled entire 10'x 20" dia red oak tree in about 4hrs. Worked great. 70cc saw is really a minimum for this kind of work. Yes a 50cc saw will do it but in twice the time.

This thing is so flimsy that it’s almost impossible to get a flat board with it. Those responsible for this thing will give solutions for its shortcomings but there should be none. There are these screws that are designed to keep it from sagging but it shouldn’t sag. If it were rigid, there would be no need to keep it from sagging The screws back out from vibration. Sometimes the screws are too long and keeps you from being able to slide your saw forward. There should be no need for these screws. Total disappointment.